Oh and (like many of my posts) this one is rather picture heavy.
A couple of things that didn't make it into the pictures. I didn't take pictures right out of the box, the models are a bit plastic looking right out of the box, so they all received a quick coat of testor's dullcoat to take away the shine and give the pastels a little tooth to hold on to. I also removed the trucks and popped the wheels out to make things a little easier to deal with.
Here are the victims plus my cheap weathering brushes. What is missing from this picture are the sponges that I used to apply the Pan Pastels. The sponges work much better than a brush. |
The gondola (all of the freight cars have had a coat of dullcoat at this point) |
The tank car |
One of the stock cars with their underframes in the foreground |
Didn't forget the wheels either, each set received a coating of either Pan Pastel; Red Iron Oxide Shade or Red Iron Oxide |
A truck with the weathering finished and re-assembled |
The gondola gets a quick brush of straight Liquitex Burnt Umber Ink |
This ink will re-activate with water so in a couple places where the decals were to dark I just went back in with a wet paintbrush and removed the excess ink. |
The flatbed of the tank car gets the same coating of burnt umber |
The other side |
The finished D&RGW Gondola |
The finished Tank Car, it will get decals someday |
One of the stock cars. Quite frankly I find them hard to tell apart at this point. I definitely need to go in and change that number. Maybe I'll just get some paint and change the 3 to and 8. |
And that wraps up a weathering session for Calamity's RR.
That looks excellent. I shall keep this in my book marks as I shall need to do something similar with some diecast trucks I have
ReplyDeleteThanks Simon! Its nice to know that someone finds this stuff useful now and then!
DeleteWow! I'm impressed. They all turned out great Kris. Nice job and thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteThanks Darel!
DeleteSorry if you get this twice. I was asking about how to fix the weathering as I tried grinding up pastels and then essentially washed off all my weathering with varnish. Not sure why my comment disappeared.
ReplyDeleteGround up pastels are not the best choice for weathering, they have a couple of extra ingredients that are missing from pure pigments. That being said pure pigments will also tend to disappear when you apply a varnish. I have never really seen a good answer as to why though. You have a couple of options though. The first is to use Isopropyl Alcohol to fix them in place (I use at least the 90% stuff), just flood the area with the alcohol (don't brush is on, load up a brush full and just touch the tip to the model and let it wick off). Initially it will look like you have lost the pigments again but once it dries it the pigments will pop back out. The advantage is that you can clean the pigments off using this method as well, in which case you do want to brush it. The other option is using "Fixer" from either AK Interactive or MiG Productions. I wish I knew what this stuff was so I could get it cheaper, its a bit expensive. Apply it the same way and this time its pretty permanent, I suspect you might be able to get it off with turpentine or something.
DeleteThe Pan Pastels that I have been using are kind of a different animal from regular pigments and seem to have a certain "stickiness" to them to they don't really need to be sealed. They can be removed with an eraser. Another pigment worth mentioning are the ones from Bragden Enterprises. Supposedly they are "sticky" as well. I have a set but every time I decided to try them out I can't find them. When I'm looking for something else they are right on top of everything. So the Pan Pastels and the Bragden you shouldn't have to seal.