Life is short, break the rules. Forgive quickly, kiss slowly. Love truly, laugh uncontrollably and never regret anything that makes you smile. - Samuel Longhorne Clemens (Mark Twain)

Monday, December 8, 2014

My Weathering Tools & Supplies

I had a question about what I use to do my weathering. While I was at my desk cleaning up prior to a painting session I snapped a few quick pictures of my primary tools.

From left to right, sponges, sponge handles, cheap brushes (mostly chip with a couple rounds) and Prismacolor pencils. The pencils are really handy when you need to just hit an edge, I have white, burnt sienna, raw sienna, burnt umber and raw umber.

Pan Pastels. I purchase mine from Stoney Creek Designs and Roger includes a wrapper to go around the outside with the color name and an approximation of the color inside. Quite handy when they are stacked up on a shelf.

All the information you need is underneath

This is a cake, so no messy loose powders. It also holds very well to the model.

The sponge tools for the Pan Pastels. Applying with the sponges is the easiest way. You can also erase them from the model with a regular pencil eraser

MiG pigments are seeing less use than before, but they still have their place in my weathering arsenal.

And here is one of the reasons why. Its very easy to mix the loose powder to get a different color tone. Hard to do this with the Pan Pastels.


  1. Oh, those PanPastels look good, thanks. I always end up with weathering powder all over the place. There's a stain on our nice cream carpet from the last tank I did ;)

    1. They can still be a little messy, but nothing like managing to knock over a pot of loose pigment!

  2. Must admit I am curious about these weathering powders... once you have applied it to the model, how do you get it to stay on? I would imagine it would just fall or brush off?

    1. There are a couple of different ways to fix powders in general. The Pan Pastels are "sticky", while you can still rub them off they are not going to just brush or fall off once you have either brushed or "sponged" them on. They can be sealed with dullcote although if they are applied to thinly they will "disappear" so make sure you apply them thickly if you do this. Loose powders can be fixed by either mixing the with isopropyl alcohol and applying wet or rub them on with a brush and then gently apply the alcohol afterwards. Depends on how much control you want. They can still be rubbed off but it is difficult. Both MiG and AK make a "fixer" that can be applied afterwards or mixed in that is damn near permanent. I wish I know what it really was. Dullcote on loose powders can make them "disappear" as well. I think it has something to do with both the pressure of the spray and how the lacquer of the dullcote penetrates the powder on the model.