There is going to be a fair amount of exposed or unpainted wood on this model so I thought I would give this technique a try utilizing what I had on hand which are my Liquitex Acrylic inks. I selected Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, Yellow Oxide and Carbon Black as my colors. I have used the umber and sienna for raw wood before so I was comfortable with these choices. The yellow looked like a close match to the Vallejo yellow wash in the picture but the carbon black ink is really, really black so I was a little hesitant with that.
An important thing to remember with the inks is you must use them on a primed surface. Straight plastic or, in my case, foamed PVC is definitely a hydrophobic and tends to make inks bead up and not adhere properly. So keep that in mind if you give this a try. I would think you would need a primed surface if you used the Vallejo washes as well.
On to the pictures
|I decided to start with the floor, its big and doesn't have any complicated corners to deal with.|
|Applied the Burnt Sienna, Same deal, splattered drops of it and brushed with the grain and over lapping areas of Burnt Umber|
|Without adjusting the white balance you can start to see the build up of color, bringing character to the floor.|
|Here I have added the oxide yellow. Shifting the white balance really made this starker looking that it really is.|
|With the yellow and no white balance|
|Adding some more burnt umber|
|Adding the black and playing with the white balance|
|Not quite so stark|
|The two floors finished|
|Using burnt sienna on the wainscotting|
|Painting in the dark trim, BEFORE I add the wallpaper|
|Sealed up with a solid coat of Vallejo Matte Varnish.|
With the way the ink is splattered on and then brushed with the grain I think this technique will work to get the silvered old wood look on the exterior as well. On the other hand my old weathering technique of using the Scribbles black dye is still quite valid and now that I think about it there really isn't a lot of difference between the two techniques.