A little background before I dive into this. I have made a conscious effort to reduce the magazine back issue population around the house. The ones I do hang on to are the NGSL Gazette (6 times a year), Model Railroad Planning (annual) and the On30 and HOn3 Annuals. I probably have less than a dozen issues of other magazines. I tend to periodically work my way through all the annuals and I often find small articles that I forgot about that pique my interest again.
I’m reaching the point on my current build that I need to
seriously think about painting and weathering so I started flipping through my
collection of On30 Annuals. Something was tickling the back of my mind about
weathering wood in Colorado. I had flipped through 8 issues when I found an
article in the 2014 On30 Annual; Knotty & Nice, Weathering Wood Structures
by Jim Ellis. This article isn’t about how to get the silvery grey color, it is
about replicating the brown/orange color often seen in the Colorado high
country. Normally I would go to my standard peeling paint weathering, but the
current build is a mining structure and it is a 50/50 shot if it was painted or
unpainted. The article was very intriguing, so I had some alcohol markers
already and ordered the rest.
Up to this point I have only completed one build with
unpainted wood sides and in that instance I went with the silvery grey
weathering recommended in the kit instructions, so I already had experience
using alcohol based markers (4 versions of grey). I think it turned out pretty
good, there are some nice tonal variations and it was easy to accomplish with
the markers and then a quick wash with Weather All (out of production, but
there are a more than a few versions of it on the market) to blend it together a bit. It doesn’t get much simpler
than that.
What I really want to replicate are the colors you see in these pictures:
![]() |
| The Yankee Girl Mine in southwest Colorado. Note that the planked roof surfaces have weathered to the classis silver grey while the vertical components vary from grey through brown to orange. |
![]() |
| This pic is from the opposite side under different lighting conditions. Here the orange appears more like a much light brown, almost tan. |
So, we are looking to create a mix of browns and orange (of
all things) along with areas of silver grey. I decided that this technique
needed some practice before I tried it out on the model. In the article Jim
Ellis, essentially, uses five or six different Prismacolor markers to make
rapid streaks on the wood. Here’s the process:
1.
Using double sided tape, stick the individual
strips down tight against each other. You can also apply this to a piece of “sheet”
(plank?) wood (which you could later cut down to individual strips or whatever
you need).
2.
To provide a base, in my case the Weather All, apply
the product to the wood, as “primer” coat. Let this dry (you can do multiple
coats to get the base color you like).
3.
Using the alcohol based markers rapidly make random
streaks down the wood (working with the grain). Alcohol markers dry fast so
speed is key, you are trying to blend the colors together at least to a certain
extent.
4.
Once the alcohol has dried (probably seconds)
apply another generous amount of your silver weathering mix again. This will
help blend the colors together. Once this has dried your, wood is ready to go.
Pretty straight forward, the article goes into a lot more
detail including adding knots and wood rot at the bottom. I checked the White
River Productions web site and 2014 issue is not available. I did see a few
copies available on eBay so try there for the full article.
The Experiment Begins
First, I didn’t use the Prismacolor alcohol markers. I already
had Copic Sketch alcohol markers (I purchased mine from Dick Blick) on hand, recommended
by Roger Malinowski for one of the Stoney Creek Designs kits that I built. I
added one more from Angel Craft from a small set of 12 markers I picked up on
sale at Homegoods. These are all dual ended markers, a wider chip style tip on
one end and a narrower pointed tip on the other.
I pulled out a handful of coffee stirrers and taped them
(with double sided tape) to a piece of foamed PVC. I applied a couple of coats of
Weather All, mostly because it didn’t penetrate the coffee stirrers very well
(it is some kind of hardwood). After that dried, I followed the directions and
applied random streaks of color as quickly as possible. I also kept some Isopropyl
alcohol handy and used that and an old brush to scrub at the colors to try and
blend them together better (limited success with that). Once dry (a minute
maybe, the benefit of living in a high dry climate) I applied another coat of Weather
All. The end effect was okay.
![]() |
| First set of coffee stirrers. To much red from one of the markers and some harsh transitions between some of the colors. Apparently I'm not good at making streaks either. I was using the bigger chip end of the marker. |
![]() |
| Initially I didn't think this was working very well, but looking at this I can start to see the colors "blending" as I went back over the top. This is the happy accident that I talk about farther down. |
Next step was to try it out on the basswood that the structure
is really made from; basswood. The exterior of this structure is board &
batten basswood (representing 6” planks in O scale, and really tiny battens). I
also wanted to try layering the markers rather than going with random streaks. When
you look at buildings with this type of weathering there are some definite
patterns to the weathering. The bulk of the color tends toward the darker brown
colors, as you move towards more sunlight you start to see more orange and
often in the harshest areas you can see our favorite silver grey color. It
probably wouldn’t make a difference on a smaller building but this one is big
and the patterns need to make sense.
Like any good modeler I don’t throw anything away (at least
right away). I still had the frets that the main walls had come on, so plenty
of material to work with. Since I’m still experimenting at this point I
repeated the original process with random streaks. I found this a bit difficult
with the battens in place. When I applied the second application of Weather All
I made sure it worked its way into the edges of the battens. Still not pleased
with the effect at this point and at least one of the markers I was using (since
I was also experimenting with color at this point) had way to much red in it, a
color that definitely does not exist on the prototypes.
![]() |
| I "primed the wood on the right side with the Weather All, and went without on the left side. Again the brown marker with the heavy red element snuck back in. |
In one of those happy accident moments, I notice that you could continue to affect the color after it was applied when you ran another marker over the top (I don’t know if this would work with the Prismacolor marker), either the same one which would intensify the color or a different color that helped blend things together. This worked even after the colors were dry (should have tried that much earlier).
At this point I’m was down to what I felt like were the
final colors for the structure. I picked out another section of the fret and
repeated with my modified process. Now I was starting to get the results and
control I was hoping for. Lots of tonal variation and since I could intensify and
blend colors by going back over it (much like paint) with the same marker or
change the tone by adding another color on top.
A couple of final thoughts. I haven’t tried Prismacolor
markers so I don’t know how they would perform as you layer the colors. I
really like the Copic markers because the pointed tip is much softer than the
Angel Craft pointed tip. The Copic works more like a paint brush. The Angel
Craft is much harder like a Sharpie marker and leaves a very distinct line that
is harder to blend. I’m going to go back to Dick Blick and see if I can find a similar
brown in the Copic line. Take a look at the pictures and let me know if you
think I succeeded with the modified technique.
Now a bit of why we see these colors, this is an AI answer mind
you. I’m not going any further down the rabbit hole on my own.
In Colorado (and probably in any location that shares
similar climates) wood weathers to different colors based on a mix of sun
exposure (UV radiation), moisture and the natural resins inside the tree
itself. In the dry, high-altitude sun, these elements interact to create colors
running from a bleached silver grey to a rich, dark brown with orange streaks.
AI also suggested that the south and west facing walls would
tend to bleach to the silver grey while the north and east faces would weather to
the brown/orange pattern. Looking at pictures I don’t really feel like this is
the case. There are definitely variations based on the sun position but not
always as well defined as the AI response insinuated. The one thing I have noticed
is that horizontal surfaces almost always bleach to silver grey rather than the
brown/orange. Ore bins, regardless of position to the sun, seem to run more
towards the silver grey than the brown/orange, although I have certainly seen
examples of both and there are pictures of mining structures with the
headframes and support buildings in the brown/orange weathering and the bins in
silver grey. As they say, you can find an example for almost every situation.
Climate definitely affects this process as does the type of
lumber used. A well documented example is Bodie National Park. Those buildings have
almost universally weathered to the dark brown color and most lighter colors
appear to be variations of brown, while there is some of the orange it is (check the time of day the photo was taken, I
have noticed that shots taken in the early morning or late evening when the sun
is low makes the lighter browns look very orange at Bodie) not as prevalent as
seen in Colorado. I’m not sure how much altitude makes a difference (other than
intensifying the UV exposure); Bodie sits at 8,375 feet and the Yankee Girl sits
at 10,600 (so close to the tree line, typically starting about 11000 feet). Having
a reference photo or two handy is a important to make sure you have the right
colors to work with.




















