Just over 24 hours after priming I tried again with the oil wipe technique. Much better this time. I still managed to rub down to bare metal but only in very small spots so I can deal with that. I really like the way the burnt umber went on the Army Painter, Brown Leather, but not so happy with the Tamiya Dull Red or Camel Yellow. First I managed to rub away to much of the Dull Red off, so first lesson (which I already knew) enamel still isn't primer. I'm going to check to see what Army Painter has for Red or Yellow types of primers when I have a chance this week. In the meantime the first unit of cavalry is drying and should be ready for painting tomorrow. I may go ahead and rub down the rest of the brown leather primed cavalry,
So here are a few pictures of today's results.
Here are all six of the brown primed cavalry for the King's Cuirassier Regiment.
Red primed horse, brown primed rider
Yellow primed horse, brown primed rider
These are some nice, solid sculpts. Great pieces. I'm looking forward to seeing them done and I must say it's nice to see an experienced painter struggle with learning something new!! Good luck Kris!
ReplyDeleteThis may well be a case of you can't teach and old dog new tricks!
DeleteBy the way I saw what you called me on Ray's post. "That O'Leary character" Ooooh Kris, you're in trouble now!!!
ReplyDeleteYou did start a minor skirmish over the puny 15mm armies. I loved it!!
I figured that phrasing might get me in a bit of trouble :-) I thought I would stir the pot a little bit, admittedly I do own and have painted more 15s myself over the years.
DeleteI was going to say something scathing back at you as a joke but I thought other people might think I meant it!! I don't think there's a scale you haven't painted.
ReplyDeleteThat's what I was waiting for! There are a few I haven't painted. The smallest I have done is 1/285th (micro armor) and the largest (finished piece) is 80mm. I definitely don't have anything smaller than the micro armor but I do have one 200mm piece that still intimidates me.
DeleteComing along very well!
ReplyDeleteDo you plan to put a varnish coat over oiled horses?
Dan
I haven't decided if I'm going to clear coat these or not. The neat thing about the oiled horses is the sheen it gives them and he clear coat is going to kill that. However, I'm not sure how much tabletop abuse they can take without that clear coat.
DeleteFWIW I had the same experience. The trouble with oil based paints as an undercoat (e.g. enamels) is that the oil paint for the wash is diluted with the same agent that dilutes the undercoat. You've also got the problem that, if the undercoat hasn't bonded properly with the metal (grease or release agent on the casting etc.) any rubbing with remove it.
ReplyDeleteThe way round this is to prime the casting as normal (black, white, whatever) and then give it the appropriately coloured base coat of either car body spray (cellulose paint or sometimes acrylic) or normal craft or, say, Vallejo acrylic paint. Cellulose paint is thinned with acetate and acrylic with water, so they won't be affected by the oil wash and there's a substantial base for the wiping not to penetrate to the metal. If you haven't any option but to use enamels or oil based primers then leave them for several days (I'd recommend at least 48 hours) to dry thoroughly.
Of course, many gentle wipes are better than one vigorous one - tell me about it!
Hope this helps
That helps quite a bit. My TYW stuff has been on hold for a long time, but I definitely want to get back to them and continue forward with this technique. Thanks!
Delete