Quotes

Life is short, break the rules. Forgive quickly, kiss slowly. Love truly, laugh uncontrollably and never regret anything that makes you smile. - Samuel Longhorne Clemens (Mark Twain)
Showing posts with label P107 Halftrack. Show all posts
Showing posts with label P107 Halftrack. Show all posts

Friday, August 21, 2020

World War II Project - P107 (f)/U304 (f) 21st Pz Div Halftracks - Paintwork

Its been a while since I have worked on these but its time to get them across the finish line. I did a little more research because I was getting a little confused about some of the information I was reading. I blame it on Becker. So the P107 (f) itself is actually the unarmored version, which looks a lot like a halftracked truck. The original function, for the French, was as a light artillery tractor or an engineering platform. Enter our friend Alfred Becker. The 21st Panzer Division was short on all types of armored vehicles, but especially the SdKfz 251/1 halftracks. Becker took the P107 and from them created the armored U304 (f) halftrack. It looks very similar to the SdKfz 251 and I suspect that was intentional to help avoid friendly fire as the angled armored sides would not have been easy to construct.

I'm using the Warlord Games P107 (which should be called the U304(f)) which required some fairly major "adjustments" to get it to come together properly. Warlord also makes a U304(f) with the PaK 36 (I'm not sure how I missed that). I don't know if its the same body as their P107 or a new model but I'm fairly certain it was not available when I bought my P107s which was, admittedly, a number of years ago. I have also learned that Mad Bob Miniatures is also making the U304 (f) now and that would probably be my first choice if I were to do it again or just needed more. Mad Bob makes two AA versions (armored and partially armored) the MG version and the Pak 36 version. Their castings tend to be a little on the rough side but the simplicity of construction and the price go a long way in making up for that and really there are plenty of ways to fix a rough casting.

Here are links to the previous progress on the U304 (f)s:

And with that I started off with the paint sequence (still trying to figure out the best sequence for this, so subject to change without notice). I applied a filter first to tie the colors together a bit more. I did two very thin coats which harmonized the colors a bit more than a single coat would do. Following that I did the lining. This really starts to make the vehicles standout and its definitely a bit tedious. You don't just apply an dark wash over the whole vehicle which would really hide what I was trying to do with the filter, instead I use a brush with a reasonably good tip and outline the areas, especially around raised panels, panel lines and the like. I don't use my good Kolinsky sables for this, I'm using Ammo's Dark Wash which is an enamel wash and enamels will eat a brush really fast. Which means I finally found a good use for those double ended brushes I got on a kickstarter so many years ago now. Oh and apparently I didn't really get enough gloss varnish over the decals in a couple of places and the filter really ripped them up. However, I think they look quite good after that so I didn't bother to replace them. They will help with the chipping.

After that was finished I started to fade the upper surfaces a bit. I'm trying some oil colors from Abteilung to see how those work differently from the Ammo Oilbrushers. Unfortunately I really didn't really let things dry adequately so the initial work was not what I had hoped for. Time to step away and let things dry before I try it again.



Beginning the lining, you can really see the difference between the one I just started and the next one in the lineup.
I have just started the lining on the U304 on the left, it really stands out from the one on the right even at this stage.


Lining is complete, next I'll move on to fading some of the top surfaces. If you look close you can see the disintegrated iron cross on the middle U304, the result of not applying enough gloss varnish over it.

And from the back

The step I was hoping to get to, fading using the new Abteilung oils I purchased. Best to spread these out on a piece of cardboard to absorb some of the excess oil, helps it dry faster too. I'll go back to these after the U304s have had some more time to dry.

Friday, June 12, 2020

World War II Project - Return to Normandy - The Gangs all here

There has been a lot of building and not much painting for a while now. Here is the line up for the paint shop


15cm sFH 135/1 (Sf) auf Geschutzwagen Lorraine Schlepper (f), Pak 40 auf S307 (f) both from MadBob Miniatures

Pak 40 auf S307 (f), Unic P107 Halftrack (f) [Warlord Games]

First up; a filter to help bring the colors together a bit more.

Filter applied and lining started on one of the schleppers. The filter affect is hard to see in the photos, it is subtle but the colors are a bit more unified because of it. The lining on the first schlepper may be to dark a brown might have been a better choice. Further weathering may tone it down quite a bit. I'm going to try a different wash for lining on the next one, more of an umber brown I think.




Thursday, May 7, 2020

World War II Project - Return to Normandy - P107/U304(f) Halftrack - Paintwork

I had an opportunity to start the paintwork on these. I primed and applied the dunkelgelb in one session of work. While that sets I hope to start the detail work on some of the other Normandy vehicles.











Tuesday, May 5, 2020

World War II Project - Return to Normandy - P107/U304(f) Halftrack - MGs

Probably against my better judgement I decided to go ahead and add the extra MG positions. Realizing that this are going to be pretty fragile I pinned everything. Since quarters are pretty tight I used a #70 drill bit (and probably should have used a #71 or #72 instead) for all the holes and staples for the pins themselves. Finding staples around here is a lot easier than darn near anything else. Each staple yields four pins so they are a pretty good value when you think about it.

This is a pretty standard pinning job. I didn't realize how soft the lighter grey resin really is until I managed to shave away one of the support posts when I was cutting an "x" into the top to guide the drill bit. Fortunately I had a piece of styrene that I could substitute for it so I cut the whole thing away after my knife slipped. The only issue is the cross section is hexagonal rather than round but I doubt anyone will notice once they are on the table.
Six MG34s and three MG42s. Each halftrack will have three MGs; one in the main mount over the driving compartment, and one on either side.

With pins glued in. I'll cut these to length after I glue them to the support arms.

Glued to the support arms although not I have not trimmed down the pins yet. I also had to drill out the bottom portion of the support arm to hold it to the halftrack. This is when I discovered I should have used and even smaller bit when I blew through one of the sides when I was slightly off center.

Drilled out the holes for the support arms on the left and right side. I had already drilled out and mounted the MG shield at this point.

Pins in place on the sides

And all glued up. I suspect that they side MGs will not last long in game play, but they look cool now.

Monday, May 4, 2020

World War II Project - Return to Normandy - P107/U304(f) Halftrack - Windscreen

The next issue with Warlord's P107 is the windscreen which really doesn't fit and has a tendency to fall through into the body. What I did was take some strips of sheet styrene and glued this in behind the windscreen so it had something to rest on. The second issue is the hinges on the windscreen don't match up between the top of the hood and the windscreen. I'm just going to ignore this particular issue figuring that most people are not likely to notice after its been painted up and weathered.

Slipping in these little pieces of strip styrene turned out to be trickier than expected. There just isn't much space for my big fingers, but the concept is pretty straight forward. Once the windscreens were in place I filled the gaps with Squadron Green and smoothed everything out.

After that I pinned and glued in place the MG shield, but didn't mount the MG and added the head lights. I glued the heads to the drivers and left those loose as well for painting. 

That's what it takes to get the Warlord Games UNIC P107 up to snuff for the gaming table. I was pretty unhappy with this kit and how poorly it went together considering how expensive it is.














Friday, May 1, 2020

World War II Project - Return to Normandy - P107/U304(f) Halftrack - Axles

I started the axle surgery on the Warlord Games P107s. Really nothing more complicated than cutting brass rod. The front, pewter, axle measured out fine, so I cut three pieces to match that length. Front "suspension" ready to go! The tracked portion requires a bit more finesse. The axle for the drive wheel is also not long enough. I decided to cut it long enough to be flush with the front of the casting on both sides. I drilled out the drive wheel hole and the return roller and inserted brass rod and cut it to the right length. The two small axle pieces are also not long enough. With the drive wheel axle in place I inserted the small axle on one side and cut it to length. Kind of a guess and by golly estimation to be sure. Also note that you need to drill out the return axle holes in the body of the vehicle as well. From there is was just a matter of making sure that all the axles would slide into the appropriate places and then glued things together.

After building these models I'm contemplating mounting all of my vehicles on to bases. Not my favorite thing to do but if I can find a way to do it and make it look good it would go a long way in protecting the models themselves.

Here are the steps:


A quick front axle dry fitting

This small axle is just not long enough, it wouldn't even reach the track casting.
  
Holding it all together after cutting the drive axle to length


The supplied axle was just not going to be long enough.


Testing fitting the drive and return roller axles

All the axles ready to go.

Broke the tip of my cutters. Brass is hard pay attention to where on the blade you are trying to cut on!

Drilled out the drive and return roller holes on the casting

That return roller axle is even close to being long enough

A quick test fit of the front wheel assembly. Here is the issue to be aware of the slots are not actually parallel to each other, they are crooked! I didn't bother to correct this but a few swipes with a file should take care of the issue.

Managed to get it all together. Basically I glued the axles to one side, set that assembly into place on the model and then press fit the other side into place. The hard part was getting the return roller axle into place on the second side.

This one ended up being a little long and needed to be trimmed. I suspect what really happened is that I didn't quite hit the hole in the body.

All the new axles in place

I know you can't really tell that I did anything but at least everything is together and (hopefully) will stay together.